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Published by emilia
Hello! I'm Emilia (they/them), a sewing enthusiast living in Tokyo. Besides my love for all things tailoring, I’m passionate about politics, ethics, and sustainability, and enjoy facilitating hard conversations crossing the border between crafts and activism.
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Just a hint , ‘mens’ and ‘womens’ tailoring are REALLY only different in pattern cutting and canvasing (the boob issue) Canvas is constructed based on what kind of shape is desired for that jacket, it’s basted and pad stitched using same stitches… That’s only based on my general knowledge
I am aware. To be fair, there are differences in style lines and general cutting (which on turn chance fit dramatically, especially how the jackets sit and end – above the derriere or no), especially in the sleeve caps area. The canvassing gives shape but the rigid padstitched one is used in British tailoring and not in Italian one for example. Having said that, you kind of make my point. No reason to call them men’s or women’s. Just teach the techniques.
What a great post, rich in information and references that will be very useful in a tayloring journey. One of my favorite book for jacket tayloring is the one from Sebastien Espargilhe (Eyrolles Editions – Paris), ‘La veste tailleur Homme’. It is a step by step description of the assembly of a jacket with explanation of each step, with a lot of pictures to illustrate, all is in french, but easy to understand.The author is currently costume designer at Opera de Paris.
Available on AMZ but not on Bookdepository.
Thanks for the reco! I’ll look into it and possibly search for indie bookstores who carry this title. Personally I’d be so happy to read about tailoring but in French!
[…] This is part II of a series on Classic Tailoring. Click here for Part I. […]
[…] to know why the link between busts darts-womenswear-womanhood-female bodies is problematic, look here). In addition, the collar is still pretty wide, though in this case I don’t mind too much […]
Here’s another one for the list of good reads: Clarence Poulin’s “Tailoring Suits the Professional Way.”
His book covers the same ground as Cabrera with the added bonus of drafting instructions.
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