If you follow my Instagram account you must be familiar with a couple of pairs of trousers I have been wearing a lot lately. These pants feature a unique side closure, which is inspired by the iconic and in my opinion problematic Gurkha trousers. When I say iconic, I mean it: Gurkha trousers feature a… Continue reading The Gurkha trousers: when style meets imperialism.
This is part 2 of Canvassing 201. For part 1, click here. For Canvassing 101, click here. Congrats! You have made it this far. Now that you have your fronts and you have finished preparing your canvas, it's time to baste them together so they can be treated as one. Of course, there are more… Continue reading Canvassing 201: assembling the canvas and jacket front
For the intro to canvassing, complete with an outline of the different canvassing styles, click here. Finally, it is here: an in-depth canvassing guide! I'm making this guide in the context of a heavy flannel winter jacket, so I decided to use the British style of canvassing. This is the most canvassing you are ever… Continue reading Canvassing 201: preparing the canvas
Canvas is a type of underlining used to shape and give structure to tailored garments, especially coats (aka jackets) and overcoats. Far from being a standardized practice, it takes many forms: from the multilayered full canvas used in Savile Row, to the its absence in Neapolitan tailoring, there's really no right or wrong way to… Continue reading Canvassing 101
Last year I wrote about the jackets and their components. In compete honesty, I am more of a maker of pants than of coats: I always say that not everyone wears blazers, but everyone wears pants! There are so many things to consider when making pants, from raise, to pleats, to ease, to cuff…the options… Continue reading #TailoringForThem – Part III: All about pants
Finally, it is here: my new linen suit! I got this Irish linen last year with the idea to make this suit and I finally followed through. After 3 versions of this self drafted jacket, I think I have nailed the general shape. This time I opened the quarters slightly more for increased ventilation and… Continue reading Linen suit: ready for summer
It’s almost July and this means one thing in the Boreal hemisphere: heat. This only means one thing: it’s time for summer suitings! This is actually a question I got from my friend Nayila the other day, and I was quite frankly shocked I’ve never done a post before, given that summer here is incredibly… Continue reading Summer Suiting
Last summer I started drafting a pants pattern to embody all my Neapolitan style dreams: think inseam pockets, loose but not too loose silhouette, two pleats, cuffed hem, high waist. Blogs such as Die, Workwear! only enabled this obsession, which unfortunately I had to put in the back burner due to having to do other… Continue reading Viki Sews Adeline + VBC Covertcoat: all my pants dreams come true
I’ve been asked several times what my secret for a crips sleeve placket, as this particular part of shirt making is often badly explained and ends up dissuading many people from making shirts altogether. For this reason today I’m sharing with you my own method. I confess it’s been a lot of trial and error… Continue reading How to sew a sleeve placket, the easy way (IMHO!).
Disclaimer: while I received this pattern for free, opinions are my own. This review is intended as a documentation of my sewing and as a helpful tool for my audience, nothing more. You all know I'm a lover of classic style and pleated pants. So when Delphine of Just Patterns asked...well...months ago to sew a… Continue reading #PatternTorture: my take on the Tatjana Trousers