If you follow my Instagram account you must be familiar with a couple of pairs of trousers I have been wearing a lot lately. These pants feature a unique side closure, which is inspired by the iconic and in my opinion problematic Gurkha trousers. When I say iconic, I mean it: Gurkha trousers feature a… Continue reading The Gurkha trousers: when style meets imperialism.
This is part 2 of Canvassing 201. For part 1, click here. For Canvassing 101, click here. Congrats! You have made it this far. Now that you have your fronts and you have finished preparing your canvas, it's time to baste them together so they can be treated as one. Of course, there are more… Continue reading Canvassing 201: assembling the canvas and jacket front
For the intro to canvassing, complete with an outline of the different canvassing styles, click here. Finally, it is here: an in-depth canvassing guide! I'm making this guide in the context of a heavy flannel winter jacket, so I decided to use the British style of canvassing. This is the most canvassing you are ever… Continue reading Canvassing 201: preparing the canvas
Canvas is a type of underlining used to shape and give structure to tailored garments, especially coats (aka jackets) and overcoats. Far from being a standardized practice, it takes many forms: from the multilayered full canvas used in Savile Row, to the its absence in Neapolitan tailoring, there's really no right or wrong way to… Continue reading Canvassing 101
Last year I wrote about the jackets and their components. In compete honesty, I am more of a maker of pants than of coats: I always say that not everyone wears blazers, but everyone wears pants! There are so many things to consider when making pants, from raise, to pleats, to ease, to cuff…the options… Continue reading #TailoringForThem – Part III: All about pants
Finally, it is here: my new linen suit! I got this Irish linen last year with the idea to make this suit and I finally followed through. After 3 versions of this self drafted jacket, I think I have nailed the general shape. This time I opened the quarters slightly more for increased ventilation and… Continue reading Linen suit: ready for summer
Setting in the sleeves of a shirt is possibly my least favorite sewing task. My problem is not so much the actual setting in, with easing and all that jazz, but rather the felling of the seam: the seam is too curved for the magical felling foot, and very conspicuous. In Neapolitan shirt making it… Continue reading Attaching a shirt sleeve with 1 pin: myth or reality?
If you have been following me on Instagram in the last couple of years you may remember that in 2020 I vowed to develop the perfectly fitting shirt block. This turned out to be quite an endeavour since I'm by no means an expert pattern cutter, nor did I receive any formal training. I did… Continue reading Shirtmaking adventures