Become a Patron to see this content.
Published by emilia
Hello! I'm Emilia (they/them), a sewing enthusiast living in Tokyo. Besides my love for all things tailoring, I’m passionate about politics, ethics, and sustainability, and enjoy facilitating hard conversations crossing the border between crafts and activism.
View all posts by emilia
Unlock with Patreon
[…] One of the most challenging aspects of shirt making, in my opinion, is determining which collar shape best suits one’s face. I’m not in the business of telling you what you have to do or not, just to show what I believe harmonizes a face…but these are by no means rules! Take is as a proportion thought exercise, because tailoring is all about proportions. Also keep in mind that the stand is also crucial when it comes to collar fitting (just look at how much difference the stand hight makes in my previous shirt post here). […]
Enjoy your posts. Thank you. On shirt fitting you may find Alexandria Morgan’s explanation of balance lines helpful: https://www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/. She does like darts, but the principle is sound without them. Her explanations revolutionized my fitting process.
Thank you for this. It was very interesting following your journey. I’ve only just started making shirts so it can be quite intimidating making alterations to patterns, I’ve sort of been afraid to mess with things because I don’t really know how something like the yoke functions or it’s purpose- time to do a deep dive.
I’ve currently just been making the Cornell shirt and I quite like it’s oversized fit and simple band collar, but I definitely want to experiment with different collar shapes.
It never ceases to amaze me how challenging it is to draft, sew and fit something as ubiquitous as a dress shirt.
Reading your post reminds me I need to go back and revisit my dress shirt block. Thanks for sharing your journey.
[…] Previous Post Shirtmaking adventuresNext Post Attaching a shirt sleeve with 1 pin: myth or reality? […]